As part of our goodbye to the Northern Hemisphere, we popped over to Italy for 8 days. Here’s what we did:
Day 1
We started off with a 2am trip to Stanstead. At 9 o’clock we were in Italy, and by 10.30 we were catching a water bus to our hostel, which is funny, because as it turned out we were a five minute walk from the bus station.
Venice in the winter time is fantastic, the crowds are minimal, and there is a cool mist floating off the canals (we haven’t been in the summer time, but apparently it’s packed and the canals smell a bit funny).
We spent our first day cruising around on the water buses, and wandering around the cobbled streets. It’s so good that there’s no cars or scooters or even bikes, a very pedestrian city indeed, and also very quiet.
After a water bus ride down the Grand Canal, we got off and went to have a look at St. Marks Basilica. Started off by going up the bell tower opposite for an amazing view of Venice, then we wandered around the piazza taking photos of all the pigeons, and finally into St. Marks.
(Another reason for winter Venice visits – no queue – we’ve heard of people queueing for hours to get in here, we just waltzed in.)
St Marks was incredible. It’s completely covered in mosaic tiles of heaps of different colours. The building was MASSIVE. Because Venice is all soggy, and I guess the building is pretty heavy it had shifted a lot over the years. So no wall was straight and it was amazing to think that it’s still there after over a thousand years. We saw some bronze horses that were built in 200 BC.
After being awed by San Marco, we wandered towards the Rialto Bridge and looked at some shops. Lots of papier mache masks, and Murano glass and leather handbags. The Rialto is one of 3 bridges in the world which have shops on them, the other two are the Ponte Vecchio in Florence and Paultney Bridge in Bath, which we’ve been to, so now we’ve gone to all 3.
After that we continued to wander and had some dinner. Awful awful food, people say to go down a side street, but the whole of Venice is side streets. But never mind. Finished the day with a night time water bus ride down the Grand Canal.
Day 2
The next day we did some more wandering and tried to get lost, but couldn’t it’s such a small place that we kept coming across places that we’d been to before. We went to an old Venetian palace called Palazzo Mocenigo which had some fantastic Rococo clothing and furniture. The amazing thing about all the posh Italian buildings we’ve seen is that EVERY surface is covered with decoration; paintings or mosaics or tapestries…
After some terrible lunch, we went out to the island of Murano, where all the glass is made. We got there quite late so didn’t have enough time to see any glass being blown unfortunately. But we wandered around and had a look at heaps of shops with incredible glass in every shape and colour.
Finished off with another terrible dinner and a second night time water bus ride the other direction up the Grand Canal.
Day 3
Another early start and it was farewell to Venice. We flew from Venice to Rome and arrived in Rome at about lunch time. We were staying at a not bad hostel called the Pop Inn right beside the train station, can highly recommend it to any one going to Rome.
We started off by wandering down to the Coliseum. All the old bits in central Rome are very close to each other and you can generally walk between them all.
The Coliseum was good. Huge and interesting, but very run down (as things get after 1000 or so years.) We got a guided tour which was very useful, because there are a lot of bits of rubble that look like bits of rubble, and unless there is someone to tell you what you’re looking at, it could get a bit confusing. Our tour also included an extra hour and a half tour around Palatine hill, just beside the Roman Forum and the Coliseum. It was also quite interesting, but without Lorenzo, our guide, it would have been a pile of rocks and broken columns.
After all that tour guiding we were a bit knackered and had to go home for a bit. Then we went out to Trastavere for dinner. Apparently that’s the place that all the Romans go for their food. Don’t know if that’s true or not, but there far fewer tourists there and the food was about 1000% better than the tourist places in Venice. I had a calzone that was about half a meter long and Hollie had some gnocci with half the Mediterranean dumped on top of it (lots of sea food.)
Although the menu had an English section, we were the only ones in there who weren’t noisy Italians, so we took that as a good sign.
On the way home we couldn’t work out how to get a bus ticket or where to get a bus so we walked, and discovered that the ruins look probably better at night time because everything’s floodlit.
Day 4
Woke up early (again! I thought you were meant to sleep in on holiday?) and went to join the queue for the Vatican Museums (Sistine Chapel etc…) It wasn’t too bad really, the only reason we had to queue for an hour is because we were there an hour before it opened. As most other people seemed to be in large groups, once the doors opened we flew through and had the place virtually to our selves. We wandered down some incredibly huge and amazingly decorated corridors, the stretched as far as the eye could see and again, every single surface was decorated with a painting or a tapestry or a sculpture or something. After going down all these amazing corridors, the Sistine chapel itself is a little disappointing. The famous painting of god + jesus touching fingers isn’t very big. Maybe it was due to my not paying attention in art history, but I always imagined that that painting took up the whole ceiling.
One of the main things that Hollie noticed about the whole of the Vatican museum(s) was the light, they didn’t seem worried about leaving windows open and letting in natural light and fresh air, and so the whole place felt very light and airy because of it.
After making our way back down more amazing corridors and outside, we walked around the walls of the Vatican City and into St. Peter’s square. This is again, amazing. The scale of everything in the square is ridiculously big. But nothing compared to the inside of St. Peter’s. The sheer size completely blew us away. It just goes up and up and out and out and back and back. Apparently it can fit 60,000 people, which is more than most English football stadiums. lots. Didn’t turn us religious though.

We climbed the 550 steps to the top of the dome, which was quite a climb, but the view at the top was worth it.
After some well earned lunch and a rest, we walked to the Spanish Steps and watched people sitting on them. And the sun set. Then we went down a posh shopping street and across to the Piazza Nuovo for dinner. Another decent meal was found, and then we actually followed the guide book and went to a gellato shop that sold over 100 flavours of gellato. Including at least 15 different chocolates. good. It’s called Della Palma and any one that goes to Rome HAS to go there. It’s just by the Pantheon.
Day 5
We got a sleep in! Finally. Had a quick walk down to the monument of the nameless soldier (or something) and watched the Polizia (or cabineri? what’s the difference?) blowing whistles at American tourists who were doing things naughty (like sitting on steps). Then we picked up our hire car and braved the streets of Rome. Looking back, it wasn’t that bad. At the time there was a bit of shouting and confusion because we had a terrible map and Italians stop sign posting things for no apparent reason. But the Italian drivers were very good. Even though it may appear like they’re the worst drivers in the world, to be able to drive the way they do and not crash/run over old ladies/bring the city into gridlock, i think they must be good. or lucky.
We managed to get out of the city unscathed and headed south towards Naples. The autostrada (motorways) are fantastic. 3 lanes and the slowest you can go is about 120kph. We averaged about 140, the fastest I think I’ve driven and I was still only in the middle lane. After driving for a while we got to our town, just south of Naples, called Vico Esquense. It was sort of like an Italian version of Timaru. Bit of a strange place really. I think it would be a bit nicer in the summer. It’s where they invented pizza by the meter, and that’s all the restaurants (a bit of a nice name for the large barns where you could buy food) seemed to sell.
Day 6
Got up and had a weird breakfast in our weird hotel in our weird town. Then drove over the Sorrento peninsula and dropped down onto the Amalfi coast. At this point my camera ran out of batteries and so we had to buy a disposable. grr.
The Amalfi coast was quite beautiful. The odd bag of rubbish chucked on the side of the road was a bit sad, but other than that it was very nice scenery. Our favourite town I think was Positano, the most northern town on the coast. Lots of little windy streets weaving up and down hills all around the bay.
Amalfi was also nice, but seemed a bit more touristy and the square was full of Italian boy teenagers shouting at each other and trying to attract the Italian girl teenagers who were also shouting at each other. they were all sitting on scooters and smoking and shouting. shouty smokey Italians.
After spending the day driving and stopping and looking at the ocean we went back around the end of the Sorrento peninsula and through Sorrento. not as nice as it sounds. but as with our Timaru-like place, i think it would be nicer in the summer time.
Day 7
We drove north to Pompeii, and then spent 4 hours wandering around the excavation site. It’s massive, we both imagined it would be a few streets and some houses, but it was a decent sized city, including a 20,000 seat stadium. We might have benefited from a tour guide or detailed book here, but it was fun just wandering around and looking at the houses, brothels, bath houses, shops and streets. There was writing on the wall that we could read. (we couldn’t understand it, because i guess it’s in Latin or something, but we could read the letters. something you don’t imagine you can do with 2000 year old writing.)
After Pompeii we drove up Mt. Vesuvius. Not much of a view from the top because the whole of the bay of Naples is a smog pit, but quite interesting. We got a bit lost coming down and drove through some fairly disgusting bits of Pompeii, Ercolano and other outskirts-of-naples-towns. Blurgh. Rubbish tips.
Day 8
Back to Rome today, it took us an hour and half of easy driving on the motorway, and then another hour and half of more shouting and confusion trying to get through Rome back to the train station. But we made it back to the car rental place with 15 minutes to spare, so that was good.
After that drive we needed a reward so went back to Della Palma and had another gellato, then went and had a look at the Pantheon. Again, amazing, huge, old.
We then went up to the Trevi Fountain which seemed to be where all the tourists in Rome had congregated at once. Then we walked down to Piazza Poppolo and watched the sunset from the top of a hill there.
Back to Trastavere for dinner, and back to Della Palma for one last gellato.
Day 9
Our last day in continental Europe for 2006
We started off by going down and looking at a piazza that Michelangelo had designed. We’d been there at night time a few days earlier and decided that it was much more spectacular at night with the flood lighting. There was quite a nice church next door where they have a weird looking baby jesus carved out of wood, and where Francesco Totti (Italian footballer) got married.
One of the cool things about Rome is that just about every street seems to have an amazing church, that if it was any other city in the world, would be the centre piece of the city. But in Rome these places aren’t even given a second thought. They’re just there. And there’s only ever about 1 other person in them.
After our church admiring, we went into the Roman Forum and had a look. another place where a tour guide, a good book and more energy would have been useful, but also fun just to wander around it.
We finished our Roman adventure with some more gellato on the Spanish steps, watching the street vendors trying to sell exactly the same things as each other to uninterested tourists.